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My Taper Jig

I decided to make a better taper jig than the really scary one I made but never used.  It's pretty basic - 3/4" x 29" x 5-1/2" MDF base, a notched stop at the near end, another stop near the middle and a couple of clamps.  The stops are 1/2" x 1-1/2" x 3"  hardwood and have 5/16" slots for 1/4-20 carriage bolts.  The clamps are 3/4" x 1-5/8" x 4-1/2" and have a centered clearance hole, but those dimensions aren't critical.  They were made from what I had lying around.  The stops & clamps are secured with 1/4-20 carriage bolts, washers and wingnuts.  The base is counterbored for the bolt heads.  You need to put a couple of scrap blocks about the same thickness as the workpiece under the clamps to keep them more or less level.  The jig works great for straightlining, too.

To use the jig, mark the taper on the workpiece.  Line up the start and end of the taper with the left edge of the jig.  The narrow end of the taper must face you.  Set the stops.  Clamp the workpiece in place and set your rip fence to a bit more than the width of the jig.  Run the jig through the saw, Take repeated cuts, moving the  the rip fence a bit each time to sneak up on the correct setting.  If you're tapering a second side, rotate the workpiece clockwise as viewed from the small end and, without moving the fence, just run the piece through the saw.  Repeat for all the workpieces.  If you're doing 4 sided tapers, mark one 2-sided tapered workpiece with the taper for one of the remaining sides & reset the stops.  Then just repeat the process.  You shouldn't have to change the scrap blocks under the clamps, even for a 4 sided taper.

I had been handplaning my tapers up till now, and advocating others to do the same, but this jig makes it so much easier I can't imagine what I was thinking.

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